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    <header class="post-header">
      <h1 class="post-title">2020年初伦敦行(3)：西敏寺、格林威治</h1>

      <div class="post-meta">
        <span class="post-time"> 2020-02-11 </span>
        <div class="post-category">
            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
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          <span class="more-meta"> 约 2370 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 5 分钟 </span>
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    <li><a href="#1-28-伦敦">1-28 伦敦</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#伦敦塔桥">伦敦塔桥</a></li>
        <li><a href="#威斯敏斯特修道院西敏寺">威斯敏斯特修道院(西敏寺)</a></li>
        <li><a href="#泰晤士河">泰晤士河</a></li>
        <li><a href="#格林威治皇家天文台">格林威治皇家天文台</a></li>
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      <h2 id="1-28-伦敦">1-28 伦敦</h2>
<h3 id="伦敦塔桥">伦敦塔桥</h3>
<p>​London Pass赶场打卡日。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AWqF77Mo6c.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Big Bus Tour线路图</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>London Pass包含Big Bus和Original Tour两家公司的观光巴士。我们打算到绿园（Green Park）坐Big Bus的红线（经典线路），大致以Green Park为中心，把泰晤士河两岸的伦敦塔桥、议会大厦、圣保罗座堂、西敏寺等都兜一遍，行经路线主要是伦敦金融城的核心地段。</p>
<p>​靛线坐到Green Park，斜穿出去就是白金汉宫(Buckingham Palace)。绿园是旧伦敦城西贵族聚居地，旁边有数栋器宇轩昂的豪宅，像Spencer House（Spencer伯爵家族老宅，就是所谓「平民」王妃戴安娜出身的那个家族，后来卖给了罗斯柴尔德）、Lancaster House（也是王室资产）之类。白金汉宫位于三个公园交界处：Green Park在北，St. James Park在东，王宫自带花园在南。王宫升旗，就意味着女王正住在里面。一般认为圣詹姆斯宫才是正宫，但王室核心并不住那儿；温莎堡是离宫，用来度假；白金汉宫是寝宫。跑去打了个卡。懒得等熊皮帽哨兵换岗，便走了。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMQnj8r608.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 白金汉宫·女王在家</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>白金汉宫门前是个广场，立着一根圆柱，纪念维多利亚女王。正是从维多利亚开始，白金汉宫才正式成为英王室的寝宫。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMRasMdd13.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 维多利亚纪念柱</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>绿园外阴风劲吹，很冷。等了半天，Big Bus来了。跑到二层，是敞开式的，随车导游在后排冻得满脸通红。车前部有耳机，插进座位前的解说器插孔，调到对应语种频道，就可以听解说。</p>
<p>这条游路走线很崎岖，但随时可以下车自由行，回头赶下一班还能接着游。它既途经名胜景点（圣保罗堂、伦敦政经学院、西敏寺之类都能贴着过，伦敦塔桥则直接开上去），也途经高奢豪肆（布加迪之类豪车和爱马仕之类奢侈品开在同一条街的那种）。尽量把精华一网打尽。</p>
<p>说点题外话。伦敦的路不喜欢横平竖直、十字交叉，却喜欢把干路修得弯弯扭扭，岔路则是60度交汇，所以经常能看到路口的房子大门冲着十字路口开，两壁夹角窄窄的。房型必定很感人，但在伦敦随处可见。双层巴士在这种崎岖的道路上七拐八绕，心惊肉跳。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMR7FEHub0.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 圣保罗教堂St. Paul Abbey</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMQSggUy52.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 伦敦塔桥</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>特别要提一句的是伦敦塔桥北堍、泰晤士河畔的一座古堡，很容易忽略，叫伦敦塔（Tower of London）。也是征服者威廉修的，以城堡代宫室。打他以后英王就住里面。最早的伦敦是罗马人造的一个要塞，叫Londinium（伦迪尼乌姆），就在伦敦塔所在的位置。后来发展出外城墙，差不多就是整个金融城的范围。这座古堡几乎见证了金雀花、兰开斯特、约克、都铎、斯图亚特前期几个王朝主要的宫廷史。时间有限，没下车去看。如今里面主要展示王室珠宝。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMRaTvE377.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 伦敦塔</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>在西敏寺一带下车。看了眼大本钟，正在维修，什么都没看到。不过后来才知道，为了1月31日脱欧庆典，英国人多花了几十万镑又把钟装回去了，就为了零点的时候敲几下。也是没谁了。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMR85cvA8e.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 大本钟</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​风很大，冻得够呛。议会大厦就在旁边，就不去打卡了。需要暖气。</p>
<h3 id="威斯敏斯特修道院西敏寺">威斯敏斯特修道院(西敏寺)</h3>
<p>西敏寺（Westminster Abbey）是英国国寺，相当于英国圣公会的本山，地位尊崇。国王加冕、大婚、国葬都在这里举行，重要人物也都葬在里面。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMQJSMUB15.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 西敏寺Westminster Abbey</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMQN2xkV15.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 西敏寺广场</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>西敏寺内部禁止摄影，但的确值得一访。哥特风格纯正到位，造型高拔，花顶繁复，彩窗精美。历代国王、王后的石棺安放其中，重要人物的纪念石碑就铺在地上。给人一种「美轮美奂的室内上坟」感。</p>
<p>诗人碑林能找到狄更斯、勃朗特这些人。可惜一大圈走下来，始终没找到牛顿。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMQuGqhVcf.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 西敏寺内庭院</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMQKmMCAc8.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 经典哥特风格的西敏寺正门</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMQNtr8Y40.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 英国圣公会总会</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h3 id="泰晤士河">泰晤士河</h3>
<p>下午回到大本钟附近，坐泰晤士游船（London River Cruiser）。同样包含在London Pass里。</p>
<p>天气还不错，坐在慢吞吞的船里看两岸风景。能够更近距离地看到伦敦眼。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMR7l4jqec.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 伦敦眼</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>能看到泰晤士南岸重建的莎士比亚环球剧场。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMRdYe7o52.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 莎士比亚环球剧院（最右）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>碎片大厦也看得更清晰。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMQYzrWAc4.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 碎片大厦</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>碎片大厦前的河道里横着一条巡洋舰，是二战时英国海军的轻巡洋舰贝尔法斯特号，现在成了战争博物馆。虽已退役，气势犹在。虽说只是条轻巡洋舰，但如果重新服役的话，排水量还能在皇家海军排到第二名，仅次于伊丽莎白号航母。大清，不，大英帝国的海军厉不厉害？</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMRhsIatc9.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 贝尔法斯特号</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMRhzwuc28.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 碎片大厦和贝尔法斯特号</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>船向西开到伦敦塔桥，转个身，让大家（稀稀拉拉没几个人）拍个完整的塔桥影像，然后掉头往东，开往格林威治。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMReL0PR57.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 伦敦塔桥</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMRi1sBN0f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 金丝雀码头</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h3 id="格林威治皇家天文台">格林威治皇家天文台</h3>
<p>到格林威治已是下午四点。最后一班游船四点半开回大本钟，届时只能转车回去了。</p>
<p>格林威治公园前是皇家海事博物馆，门前是艘大船Cutty Sark号。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMR8VmGCc2.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 皇家海事博物馆</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>我们进入公园，正好旁边是一队游学的中学生——说来有趣，这些天随处碰到西班牙、意大利的游学团——沿着绿油油的山径往天文台方向爬。</p>
<p>天文台五点半就关门。匆匆进去看了一圈。这里最著名的打卡地，应该就是本初子午线了。其实只是后院一条不起眼的铜线，延伸到门上，标注Prime Meridian。踩在两侧，就算足跨东西半球了。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMR9796Y8c.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 格林威治天文台·本初子午线</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>在山坡北望，就是Queen&rsquo;s House。泰晤士对岸，能看到2012伦敦奥运会主会场千禧体育场，以及高楼林立的东伦敦新贵金丝雀码头（Canary Wharf）。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMRrMQvJ0f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 格林威治·遥看王后宫和千禧体育场</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMRrSQ9W98.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 王后宫Queen&#39;s House</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0211/001ZzLsRzy7AMRp7BOG92.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 夜色中的格林威治天文台</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>入冬后英国天黑得很早。格林威治一带向来被评为治安不佳。我们不敢久留，坐上公交前往千禧体育场，再坐Jubilee线（灰线）回城。​Jubilee线也叫银禧线，庆祝伊丽莎白登基25周年造的。西段也早已残破老旧，不过迎奥运修的东延伸段还比较新，总算展示了英国作为发达国家本该有的一面。</p>
<p>[待续]</p>
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